Year and Month |
07-08 Oct 2014 |
Number of Days |
2 |
Crew |
Ana, Atha, Prasa and Me |
Accommodation |
Ginihiriya Bungalow (Anderson Lodge), Horton Plains |
Transport |
By SUV |
Activities |
Waterfall Hunting, Photography, Hiking, etc… |
Weather |
Excellent up to 1pm, gloomy and rainy afterwards |
Route |
Koswatte->Kaduwela->Avissawella->Hatton->Nanu Oya->Pattipola->Horton Plains by SUV and back on the same route. |
Tips, Notes and Special remark |
- Check my Dayagama Trail Report here for more information on Ginihiriya Bungalow.
- You can also check my Previous Kirigalpoththa Journey here.
- Please don’t feed Sambar Deer at HP.
- Don’t leave garbage, polythene, etc. here and there as the animals will consume them and die as a result.
- There are a few crows now in HP. I know it’s shocking news but they are there as a result of plenty of people visiting and dumping tons of garbage. Please don’t leave garbage here and there, even at garbage cans as the crows will feed on them and will increase their numbers.
- We were told by the officials that the crows are the biggest threat to the Rhino-Horned Lizard (An Katussa) as they feed on their eggs.
- Don’t attempt the KGP (Kirigalpoththa) Trail alone. Always stick together with your friends as a group.
- Be careful and cautious as there are wasps too. So it’s better not to make noise.
- Help protect the nature.
- Bring back only memoirs and pictures.
|
Author |
Sri Abeywickrema |
Comments |
Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread
|
Tour Highlights:
- Kirigalpoththa Trail
- Thotupola Trail
I woke up and lowered the blanket covering me and a rain of needles hit my exposed skin. Oh dear, I’m in HP, it suddenly dawned on me. There was a light moving out of the room and it made me feel jittery. Getting out of the bed and landing my feet on the ground sent another dose of needles up my body. It was so cold (probably around 10-degrees) and I followed the light out of the room to find Ana already up and getting ready to make some coffee. The time had just gone 4.30am and I was shivering when I entered the kitchen. There wasn’t any sign of the bungalow keepers (they can’t have ever had their guests waking up at 4.30am) and I waited with my feet up for a steaming cup of coffee.
Atha and Prasa were still sound asleep and I went back to wake them up. It was very cold and we sipped at our scalding coffee hugging ourselves so tight. The caretakers got a shock when they appeared around 5.30am to see us up and about. I guess this was a great shock for them and they got very busy making our breakfast while we washed in the freezing water and got ready to leave while the sun was beginning his painting class towards the east.
After a hot hot Roti and many curries breakfast, we set off towards the Farr Inn with some more packed boiled eggs and sandwiches. About 2km into the drive, we saw a herd of Sambar Deer to our left and stopped to take their pics. The tip of KGP could be seen in the distance while mysterious Agra Bopath kept herself covered with mist. Thotupola was showing her twin peaks to our right with a bright sun glowing the grass towards her.
We reached the Farr Inn and saw the first wave of vehicles coming from Pattipola Entrance and all the tourists were heading towards Gonagala Falls and World’s End. We showed our permit and was given the green light to carry on our trail. Thankfully, there was no one else to do the KGP trail and we started our journey merrily.
![Good morning!]() Good morning! |
![We're ready to go]() We’re ready to go |
![Hern the Hunter?]() Hern the Hunter? |
![Not really]() Not really |
![Whole family of them]() Whole family of them |
![Ok, no more pics after this...]() Ok, no more pics after this… |
![Gorgeous colors]() Gorgeous colors |
![Agra-Bopath]() Agra-Bopath |
![Comms tower at Farr Inn]() Comms tower at Farr Inn |
![The Farr Inn covered by trees]() The Farr Inn covered by trees |
![Took forever to take this as there were people milling about all the time]() Took forever to take this as there were people milling about all the time |
![Gigantic Ferns]() Gigantic Ferns |
KGP Trail – Uphill
We started the isolated trail while the sky was royal blue and had patterns of pristine white clouds like cotton wool on a painted canvas. There was a herd of Sambar to our right but ran away at the first sight of us. They were not so forward like the begging few in and around the Farr Inn and Bungalows. The invading Ulex plants were scattered about just like the last time we visited which was a very sad thing to see. There are a lot of dangers to the HP such as Polythene, Invasive Plants and fish species such as Rainbow Trout. To our surprise, we saw quite a number of crows (2 were permanently stationed at Ginihiriya Bungalow) and according to the officials, they are a huge threat to endemic reptiles, such as Rhino Horn Lizard (An Katussa), Smooth Lanka Skink, Common Rough-Sided Snake (Le/Dalawa Madilla), etc. as they feed on them and their eggs. We were told the number of Rhino Horn Lizards is decreasing every day due to the existence of the crows.
We urgently have to do something to eliminate these crows before they completely wipe out these endemic species from HP. Ana kept going at a steady pace and I was suddenly scared he’d outrun us to the summit. We reached the stream that crosses the path and spent a few minutes resting. It was a very welcome break and if you take the left path parallel to the water stream, it should lead you to the Slab Rock Falls but we didn’t attempt it as our priority was KGP. We decided to give it a go supposing we had some time to kill on our return journey and always the weather permitting.
The path there after was in and out of forest patches and bordering the Bamboo plants. We came across gorgeous looking Binara Flowers (We came across them on top of Lakegala too) and stopped at every opportunity to take snaps and breaks. This is when while I was following the rest of the group Atha suddenly stopped me and pointed at the grass to the side of our path. I saw nothing at first but he slowly pointed at it and whispered in my ear “An Katussek”. Despite my numerous visits to the HP, I’d only once seen a Rhino Horn Lizard before but well before I knew about things called cameras. This was a great opportunity as the fella was among the grass blades. The camera had a tough time focusing through the grass blades (wish our point-n-shoots had manual focusing) and after it felt like ages, managed to take a few decent shots.
We left the fella and continued our journey before entering the muddy patches. We saw the paw-prints of the leopard at many places along the path and were hopeful to get a peek at the fellow. Even though Tony was so lucky to get a look at one of them at our last journey, he was way too scared to stop and take a picture. He nearly ran all the way to the summit and fell over the edge. The muddy areas were not so difficult to cross and we entered the forest. The path that was full of Nelu Flowers last time was devoid of any flowers and most of the Nelu Trees were at their last stages. We heard after the flowery season, the trees wither and die.
There were a few still with purple and light green flowers but not a lot. However, we came across some beautiful orchids and white and blue flower that grows on the roots almost along the ground. It was a very beautiful one and bloomed in clusters. We then saw some bones of a Sambar that had probably been hunted by the leopard but couldn’t have been recently. The climb in the middle was a bit challenging and we had to stop frequently to take our breaths. The depleting oxygen levels made the work laborious.
We reached the base of the KGP having crossed the last stream. This is where you have to replenish your water canteens as there’s no stream to have water. We had our brunch too, the half boiled eggs had broken and been oozing the yellow out. We managed to dig in our sandwiches in the yellow gravy and have it. The Jeewani kept us going all the time and we made some more for the final assault. After a long and tedious hike, we arrived at the observation point, short distance below the summit panting like a pack of hunting wolves. As usual the view was unobstructed and panoramic. The tinge of purple was missing from the trees below due to the end of Nelu Season. The slope reminded me of Lakegala but she was far steeper than this.
Arriving at this point was a major milestone and we savoured the moment to the fullest. We then took the path through the trees towards the summit. There’s a very dangerous path along the rock near the edge. Please don’t take this as it can lead to disasters should you lose the footing. Further, there’s a short stretch that you need to climb up along a rocky surface. Be very careful there too and try to avoid windy periods. It took us close to 5 hours marking it probably the slowest of all and Ana may have set another record being the oldest to reach the KGP summit.
We celebrated with stream water and Jeewani with what’s left of our sandwiches. We had the whole KGP for ourselves and felt like we were lost in a world devoid of any humans. The view was great and we could see the Ambewela Windmills, Dayagama Tea Factory and many more. However there were some thick clouds coming towards us and we decided to start the downhill journey as we didn’t want to get wet and be on that rocky slope when the rain came with winds. You can watch the video of us just off the summit and Ana hilariously saying that we’d reached the Kirigalpolla. This was what Tony used when we first reached and did a short video, he was dead scared and forgot the word Kirigalpoththa and instead said Kirigalpolla.
Video of KGP
![Ready to go... that 7km is not correct. It's about 5.5km to the summit... (7km could’ve been using the old path)]() Ready to go… that 7km is not correct. It’s about 5.5km to the summit… (7km could’ve been using the old path) |
![We had the path to ourselves while World's End path was busier than Pettah]() We had the path to ourselves while World’s End path was busier than Pettah |
![Here comes the heavy guns]() Here comes the heavy guns |
![KGP and Agra Bopath closer to each other]() KGP and Agra Bopath closer to each other |
![Cotton wool sprinkled royal blue canvas]() Cotton wool sprinkled royal blue canvas |
![Ana among the thorny Ulex Plants... (note the GoPro Camera he’s wearing)]() Ana among the thorny Ulex Plants… (note the GoPro Camera he’s wearing) |
![Agra Bopath - The unsolved mystery]() Agra Bopath – The unsolved mystery |
![The dead and the alive together]() The dead and the alive together |
![Endless plain]() Endless plain |
![Not sure if it's edible]() Not sure if it’s edible |
![The stream that we had to cross]() The stream that we had to cross |
![Despite the rains, there was very little water]() Despite the rains, there was very little water |
![Through the bamboo]() Through the bamboo |
![Kirigotte Balal Adi? - Nope, it's Kalu Paswala Divi Adi]() Kirigotte Balal Adi? – Nope, it’s Kalu Paswala Divi Adi |
![Two sexy girls]() Two sexy girls |
![That color is simply uncopiable]() That color is simply uncopiable |
![Can you see the fella?]() Can you see the fella? |
![Here a close up. Can see the Horn clearly]() Here a close up. Can see the Horn clearly |
![One with no grass blocking the view]() One with no grass blocking the view |
![The path through the bamboo]() The path through the bamboo |
![Close up of the paw mark]() Close up of the paw mark |
![Taking the paw mark on his lenses]() Taking the paw mark on his lenses |
![Sitha Pera]() Sitha Pera |
![To our right was this open terrain and beyond that is Agra Bopath]() To our right was this open terrain and beyond that is Agra Bopath |
![Few Nelu flowers remaining]() Few Nelu flowers remaining |
![Orchid]() Orchid |
![Close up]() Close up |
![The sky through the tree cover]() The sky through the tree cover |
![Not Bandura, but something similar]() Not Bandura, but something similar |
![Very beautiful but no idea what they are]() Very beautiful but no idea what they are |
![Hope you can remember this from my previous trip report. It was very fresh then but now it's like limestone]() Hope you can remember this from my previous trip report. It was very fresh then but now it’s like limestone |
![The bones I told you about]() The bones I told you about |
![Some more]() Some more |
![Life on the dead]() Life on the dead |
![Dead Nelu trees making an arch for us]() Dead Nelu trees making an arch for us |
![Beautiful sky all the way]() Beautiful sky all the way |
![Close up of the bunch of flowers]() Close up of the bunch of flowers |
![The summit of KGP is over there]() The summit of KGP is over there |
![A dead bird?]() A dead bird? |
![Just before the final assault]() Just before the final assault |
![The view on the way up]() The view on the way up |
![Commonly seen orchid type]() Commonly seen orchid type |
![Very common]() Very common |
![Finally at the viewing point]() Finally at the viewing point |
![The expressions say it all]() The expressions say it all |
![Clear view]() Clear view |
![Steep slope]() Steep slope |
![The tricky bit I told you about]() The tricky bit I told you about |
![He was merrily shooting away]() He was merrily shooting away |
![The rocky bit that might be slippery and can be challenging to cross in heavy winds]() The rocky bit that might be slippery and can be challenging to cross in heavy winds |
![The trees closer to the summit]() The trees closer to the summit |
![Typical summit point]() Typical summit point |
![Yeah, we did it finally... with two records probably]() Yeah, we did it finally… with two records probably |
|
KGP Trail – Downhill
The downhill journey was more or less uneventful save for the threat of looming clouds. Fortunately, it didn’t rain until we were back inside the vehicle heading towards the bungalow. Mother Nature had been keeping an eye out for the happy wonderers. However, we were let into a secret by Ana (don’t tell anyone what I’m gonna tell you). He’s planning on competing for the triple jump in Rio in 2016 and was training for it. We noticed he kept jumping over obstacles every now and then and then realized his ulterior motive.
I’ll let the pictures tell the story from here onwards. We came across a snake (my first at HP) called Le Madilla, I guess the same one called Dalawa Madilla as well. I might be wrong but looks like both are the same. The downhill journey took only half the uphill time and we beat the rain and got into our vehicles heading off to the Bungalow for some well-deserved rest. On our way, we met another begging Sambar who was very desperate for something to eat but we flatly refused any. He then asked for at least some money so that he could go grab something such as those jaw breaking Roti from the canteen. We refused that too fearing the bugger might wolf down the note without going to the canteen.
We skipped lunch altogether and waited till evening for a hearty dinner and as usual went to bed just before 8pm coz this was our second but sadly the last night at Ginihiriya. We had Thotupola Trail planned up for the morning.
![The steep slope]() The steep slope |
![One of the fellows in disguise]() One of the fellows in disguise |
![Mind your head]() Mind your head |
![Le Madilla, not poisonous at all - Not Sure? Touch it and see]() Le Madilla, not poisonous at all – Not Sure? Touch it and see |
![The triple jump champion ready to cross]() The triple jump champion ready to cross |
![Simply beautiful]() Simply beautiful |
![The muddy path]() The muddy path |
![Prasa explaining the size of a leopard to Ana]() Prasa explaining the size of a leopard to Ana |
![Wading through the muddy path]() Wading through the muddy path |
![Another orchid?]() Another orchid? |
![Wild berries]() Wild berries |
![The SL team leader for Rio 2016]() The SL team leader for Rio 2016 |
![Entering back into the open]() Entering back into the open |
![Furry]() Furry |
![Crossing the stream back]() Crossing the stream back |
![Plenty of them]() Plenty of them |
![Very old Leopard Poo]() Very old Leopard Poo |
![Nearly finished our journey]() Nearly finished our journey |
![Prasa complaining about the distance]() Prasa complaining about the distance |
![Good bye Agra Bopath]() Good bye Agra Bopath |
![Reminds me of the first journey too]() Reminds me of the first journey too |
![Farr Inn in full]() Farr Inn in full |
![The modern Thomas Farr...]() The modern Thomas Farr… |
![Click image to enlarge]() Click image to enlarge |
![Sri Lankan White-Eye]() Sri Lankan White-Eye |
![Another]() Another |
![Upside down]() Upside down |
![He was constantly coming out of the hiding to feed on the garbage left by the tourists]() He was constantly coming out of the hiding to feed on the garbage left by the tourists |
![Prowling along the drains]() Prowling along the drains |
![The one on our way, coming towards us looking for something to eat]() The one on our way, coming towards us looking for something to eat |
!["Anything to eat?" - asked he]() “Anything to eat?” – asked he |
![Begging look]() Begging look |
![Backing out knowing we wouldn't give anything"At least give me 50 bucks, I'll go get a roti from the canteen"]() Backing out knowing we wouldn’t give anything. “At least give me 50 bucks, I’ll go get a roti from the canteen” |
![View through the windscreen]() View through the windscreen |
![Maha Bovitiya]() Maha Bovitiya |
![Up close]() Up close |
![Closer to our bungalow, the darkness made the pic not so good]() Closer to our bungalow, the darkness made the pic not so good |
![Another one looking at us]() Another one looking at us |
![Trying to get up the tree]() Trying to get up the tree |
![Whole lot of them]() Whole lot of them |
Thotupola Trail
I got up after a deep sleep to find Ana had as usual beaten me to it. He was up and about when I got up and walked into the kitchen. The water was already boiling and he was ready to serve coffee for which I was very grateful. The scalding liquid warmed my body and bungalow keepers were not yet accustomed to our early routine. Prasa, who’s a very late riser, managed to stir up slowly and opened his eyes bit by bit as if they were glued shut. We had to get ready real fast as the time was running out.
Finally Prasa managed to defeat the overwhelming force of sleep and get up. The breakfast was in full swing as Abeysinghe brought a wave after wave of fried eggs to go with coconut sambol and sliced bread. We kept eating and Abeysinghe kept running back and forth with fully laden trays. After our bellies reached their bursting point, we decided to pack the things and be ready to leave. The sun was still fighting the clouds and the mist kept coming in covering the whole surrounding with her thick veil and I was worried if we would get a good view from Thotupola.
Having thanked our caretakers we left for Thotupola in the thick mist. The path was fully covered in mist but Ohiya Road being less crowded compared to Pattipola didn’t make it that hard on driving along. Passing the Farr Inn we saw to our right a herd of Sambar out for a morning stroll. The mist was too thick for our cameras to make out them clearly (I keep saying those cameras are not as even half as good as our eyes). All of a sudden, two males started fighting with each other with their horns and I managed to do a small video.
Video of Sambar Fighting
Passing them around the head of Dayagama Trail, we met a jungle fowl who was on the hunt looking for some breakfast despite the mist. The cold was that much we could feel it going right across the bones to the core. Having reached the trail head in the end, we stopped to get ready for the chilly hike. The mist was still so thick and we saw the dying Nelu Trees after the blooming season. The legend goes on as follows:
“Long ago in India, Prince Rama lived in exile in the jungle with his beautiful wife, Sitha. When the sister of the powerful king of Sri Lanka, Ravana, once visited the jungle of Rama, she was mistreated. Returning home, she complained to her brother, Ravana who swore revenge. Taking his mythical plane, he flew to India and kidnapped Sitha and came to Sri Lanka. The aircraft first landed on the peaks of Thotupola Kanda, meaning the “Landing Site” in Sinhala.”
Well, I’ll let the pictures do the talking from now on. However, Ana was in top gear and we had to restrain him from running to the top. It took us very little time compared to the long and arduous journey of KGP. The mist kept clearing from time to time giving us that panoramic view of the surrounding mountains. However, Sri Pada decided not to show herself for some unknown reason. We were treated for a super-duper view when we visited Thotupola Kanda last time to see the Nelus in full bloom.
![The team and Abeysinghe at the left]() The team and Abeysinghe at the left |
![Here they are]() Here they are |
![Watching the others getting ready to fight]() Watching the others getting ready to fight |
![Here they go]() Here they go |
![In the open]() In the open |
![Closer look but not in good quality]() Closer look but not in good quality |
![On the prowl]() On the prowl |
![The legend (Click image to enlarge)]() The legend (Click image to enlarge) |
![The path in the morning]() The path in the morning |
![Some clearing]() Some clearing |
![Plenty of flowers]() Plenty of flowers |
![Macro]() Macro |
![Some more]() Some more |
![With the dew collected off mist]() With the dew collected off mist |
![The Dhal Tree]() The Dhal Tree |
![Closer to the summit]() Closer to the summit |
![Here's the team]() Here’s the team |
![Ravana Rawul]() Ravana Rawul |
![The view was not so great due to the mist]() The view was not so great due to the mist |
![Maha Rathmal in the distance]() Maha Rathmal in the distance |
![Zoomed in]() Zoomed in |
![With my shadow]() With my shadow |
![Ana kept going ahead of everyone]() Ana kept going ahead of everyone |
![Some of the remaining Nelu]() Some of the remaining Nelu |
![Some bones off the path]() Some bones off the path |
![The mist had enough of us]() The mist had enough of us |
![Life on the dead]() Life on the dead |
![Will have to do something about these, they were along the Thotupola trail too]() Will have to do something about these, they were along the Thotupola trail too |
![Towards Ambewela]() Towards Ambewela |
![The cluster of windmills]() The cluster of windmills |
![Giant Ferns]() Giant Ferns |
![Beautiful center]() Beautiful center |
We left HP, rather sadly, and got on the way back towards Nanu Oya. We met a large group of Black Monkeys closer to Pattipola that gave a good opportunity to Ana and Atha to capture them. Closer to Ambewela Farm, we stopped for some fresh milk where two doggies were waiting hungrily. They too received a full cup of fresh milk for their good behavior. We made good time but the stretch between Nanu Oya and Radella Short Cut was not yet completed as I mentioned in the last report.
I was eagerly waiting for another encounter with St. Claire hoping against the hope she’d have a full quota of water but I was disappointed for the umpteenth time. She was falling in her sorrow state and we didn’t stop by. Nevertheless, we stopped at Devon Viewing Platform for a cuppa tea. Unlike our going on the 04 Oct morning, when Devon was fully obscured by the mist, she was in full view and we once again enjoyed this falling beauty. The artist at the platform kept working away at his canvas with different strokes.
After a freshly fried potato patties and tea from the tea center, we left for Colombo. I kept wishing there was more time to spend at HP but every good thing has to come to an end sometime. This really was a dream come true as I finally managed to spend a night at HP after so many visits over last 15 years. It was great having Ana, Atha and Prasa, we really had a ball.
Hopefully, there’ll be more journeys like this in future. Until such time, this is Sri signing off for the time being.
Take care and keep travelling!
Sayonara…
Sri.
![Look at the beard]() Look at the beard |
![Another]() Another |
![Colombo-bound train at Pattipola]() Colombo-bound train at Pattipola |
![And then at Ambewela too]() And then at Ambewela too |
![Where we stopped for a cup of milk]() Where we stopped for a cup of milk |
![Lusty greenery and blue]() Lusty greenery and blue |
![Waiting patiently for some milk]() Waiting patiently for some milk |
![They were working]() They were working |
![No matter how many times you see her, you'd always see her in a different perspective]() No matter how many times you see her, you’d always see her in a different perspective |
![Full flow]() Full flow |
![The artistic point]() The artistic point |
![Busy at work]() Busy at work |
![Towards Watagoda]() Towards Watagoda |
![Colors]() Colors |
![Bidding farewell]() Bidding farewell |
|